Transport to Terelj National Park

I would say that going to Terelj from Ulaanbaatar wasn't that difficult. Well, of course, you'll have to expect some traveling time in this wide land. But the fact that there are straight bus from Ulaanbaatar which you do not have to worry about transiting, I think that's good enough.

Copied from Lonely Planet:
The road from Ulaanbaatar to Terelj, which goes through part of the national park, is in pretty good nick. A bus departs at 4pm from Durvun Zam and goes to the centre of the park, a few kilometres past the turn-off to Turtle Rock. The same bus comes back directly to UB. The cost is T1500 each way.

Read more: http://www.lonelyplanet.com/mongolia/central-mongolia/terelj-area/transport/getting-there-away#ixzz2bC06lN00

We took this particular bus into Terelj National Park. However, when we left, we took a van. It wasn't a public transport, just a normal van, drove by the villager to pick up locals or travelers to go somewhere called Mid Station. From Mid Station, we could take a public bus to Ulaanbaatar, which was only 1.5hour away, at T800 per person.
The capacity of a normal van in city is 15 people, maximum. However, in Mongolia, this same van managed to squeeze in 20 people (or more!!!), with some luggage. Therefore, if you could, ask a local, get to the first pick up point to wait for the van. Take the last row in the van so that you won't be squeezed to death. Or asked to sit at someone's lap etc.
The van runs every 2 hours from 8am.

First pick up point

There's no way I can tell you exactly where's the first pick up point. I do my best by showing you how it look like. It's within the village Zagaan Temeet.

I had so much doubt in whether the van would ever come. Unexpectedly, it turned up on time and got us to our destination safely :)

Wildlife Spotting in Terelj

In this very scarce land of Mongolia, there wasn't many wildlife you could easily spot. The easiest would be small birds, mouse, squirrel and eagles. There are wolves and bears too, but it's not often that you could run into them. And if, you're very very very very (x infinity) lucky, you might see a snake. At least that's what the locals told us.

We saw birds and mouse every single day when we're in Terelj. Spotted some different species mouse in Gobi too but it was night time, I didn't take pictures. And saw birds nest underground in Jargalt Khan (future post).

Not that I've never seen a squirrel in my life, but spotting them always make me feel happy. What more those staying under ground. (OK, I am not even sure if they're squirrels. I initially thought they're meerkats) (My friend had corrected me, this is not a squirrel, but a marmot!) =)

Being wary

These shy animals always tried to stay a constant distance from me. This is the nearest I can take a shot. They didn't run away from me, but if I took a step forward, it'll move backward a little. At the constant distance they tried to keep, I respected that and stayed at my spot.

Upside down

This "hao lian" little fellow was showing out its acrobatic skills by eating its favourite nuts upside down in the woods. It actually kept this pose for a long time. Until I, standing upright couldn't take it anymore.

I know I know, there's nothing to shout about for spotting a squirrel. But I'm really glad that I have rented a zoom lens to take this! Worth the work :)

喝牛奶～

活了将近三十年，我从来没有体验在农场看着乳牛被人工挤奶，到我亲口喝下新鲜的牛奶。所以，这还是本小姐的初体验。

黑面乳牛

挤在牛棚里的小牛

摆pose的小牛

首先，农妇拉了一头小牛，让它喝奶。小牛刺激了乳头之后，牛奶就比较容易被挤出来。小牛喝得正有劲，农妇就把它拉开。好可怜，好像很饿的样子。

喝得起劲

本人认为，乳牛是极不舒服。妈妈都伟大。

被刺激以后，牛奶很容易就被挤出来。

看农妇挤奶，看似容易。蒙古的朋友问我要不要试，我不敢。看起来太不舒服了。我肯定不敢恨恨的按下去。所以，还是看就好。

蒙古的农场不同我们这里的农场，没有围栏，牛羊马都是片地草原满山跑。只有个小小的牛棚，关着小牛们。他们说，晚上动物就自动回家。究竟怎么回，回什么家，我到现在还是搞不懂。

我们站在那里等着买牛奶的时候，最痛苦的事情，就是赶苍蝇，而不是牛屎。牛屎羊屎马屎，遍地草原都是，去了一天草原，也就见惯不惯。况且，大概是因为这里的动物都是吃草的，而不是吃饲料的，大便也没啥味道。 苍蝇，是最破坏草原美感的事情。明明想站在那里欣赏美景，可是偏偏苍蝇都围着你飞。我们四位，站在那里，手不停地挥动着。远远看我们，好像跳舞一样。

新鲜出炉的牛奶

农妇们很快就盛满了一大桶。一大桶也不过几块钱美元，很便宜的。而且，新鲜的牛奶，是热热暖暖的，再加上傍晚温度已经渐渐下降，刚挤出来的奶还冒烟呢！

把牛奶扛回家，生火把它烧滚杀菌，就可以喝了！这新鲜的牛奶实在是太香太浓，我很喜欢，一口气喝了两大杯！我们喝剩的，就会用来制作牛油和乳酪。吃的喝的，都是天然的产品，没有化学添加物。真好！在这里多住几天大概会很健康！ :)

说真的，现在回来，和超市的牛奶，这没味儿～

First Experience Staying in Ger

It's not a trip to Mongolia without staying in ger! It's all in my plan, that I MUST get myself into a ger, and yeah, I made it! Of course, with friends' help.

We've managed to stay in a ger in Terelj National Park (I'll talk about the transportation in next post). As we were traveling around Naadam Festival, the accommodations were all over priced. But what to do, so we stayed anyway.

Luckily our Mongolian friends have a car, we were driving around to search for a suitable ger. Some are pretty expensive, some are really dirty. And finally we're here! A decent one!

Ger Camp

Internal

Ger is a really brilliant design. Look at the walls, they are pre-made walls, which were then tied up together to form  a circle. It depends on how big is the ger, it could be made from 3-8 walls. The two center poles are the supporting structures. The fire place was in the middle, and the smoke was directed out to the ring roof. So, we got to keep warm at night, at the same time stay away from the smokes.

Keeping us warm

The fire went off pretty fast, averagely 1-2hours. However, I am a deep (or "dead") sleeper, I didn't wake up entirely throughout the night. So, whoever shared the ger with me, and felt the cold had to wake up to add the woods. While I felt warm for the whole night long.

Remember I said there's no proper toilet in rural places? Well, if you were to stay in this particular ger camp, you will get to have one.

Future posh toilet

It wasn't ready when I was there. I went in anyway, and found that the toilet bowls were installed but not connected. I do not know how are they going to connect to sewage system, I didn't even know if there's any. But looking at this, this is the most high end toilets you will ever get in this area.

Wash basin

It's such a wonderful experience to stay in the ger. When we're resting in the ger waiting for the lunch to be served, horses were running outside the ger. We can hear them galloping. When I went out to check it out, I saw horses, horses and horses.

Galloping their way

Horses

Very handsome horses

The most wonderful moment, was the morning, when I woke up, horses and cows are just next to our ger. Well, basically all around our ger. Munching their delicious grass, ignoring me completely. I took my chair to sit outside the ger, having them as my company as I wrote my travel diary. I have no words to describe how it felt, it's really just GREAT!

Horses as my company

My friend woke up and took a picture of me and the horses.

This decent ger is located in the village in Terelj National Park, Zagaan Temeet. The camp name is Shijiz Camp. And the owner is Aetandnimeg (+976-99084445). The lady boss speaks English. There's also a small signboard in English outside the camp. According to my Mongolian friend, as long as there's English, the price is more expensive. Well, I believe in that.

It's 80,000 Tughrik per night, which is about USD55. Perhaps if you're traveling at other season, you could get a better price.

Things You Should Know About Mongolia

Before I traveled to Mongolia, I was nervous and excited at the same time. I've booked my ticket only 2 weeks before the trip, I didn't have enough time to prepare myself. I guessed that's where all the anxiety came from.

It's lucky for me, I have a new Malaysian friend in Mongolia. He's settling down for good, and he knows my cultural background. So, I got to ask questions without too much fear of offending him. I sure have learned a lot by observing their life. (Thanks to CS for introducing a new friend to me!)

Now that I'm back, I wish to tell you what I've observed and learned. I think these are the things you should know before you go.

You Do Not Get to Shower
You know you're not going to get a luxury trip to Mongolia. But what you MUST know, especially city kids like us, growing up at places with plenty of resources that we've forgotten how lucky we are all these times, you don't get to shower. Well, life in Ulaanbaatar was okay, but out of the capital, resources are really scarce. People get water from well, and they have to pay for it. Therefore, water is really precious.

The photo below is showing the place where I washed up and brushed teeth when we were at Terelj National Park. The "mailbox" is where the water was stored for usage. Used water is collected in the pail. This version here is considered as "luxury" type.

Life is tough for them. It's an irony we travelers went there to experience life, while the people are struggling with their daily life. So when you're there, try not to waste the water. That's all they have.

Open air water tab for washing

I've broke my own record for not getting shower in 3 days. During the entire trip, I've only got a handful of shower, only when we're back to Ulaanbaatar.

There is No Proper Toilet
It's good for me that I've had experience in rural places in China few years back with my sister. Don't expect to have any proper toilet. Toilets in the country houses are basically a very very very deep hole. It's so deep I was in constant fear that I would slip and fell into the pile of shit. No kidding, you might probably die because you sink into the shit!

If you're on the road, there's definitely no toilet. We've been pampered by plenty of Rumah Rehat along Malaysia Highways. No such thing in Mongolia. If you need a leak, just stop your car, find a spot you like, there you go!

Toilets everywhere

To be very honest to you, sometimes I prefer this "toilet" than the deep hole. Even in the first case, that would mean no cover. But here in Mongolia, nobody gives a shit if you pee or poo in public, because everybody's doing it.

Nomadic Life
I've got to stay in a ger, as I've always wanted to. The ger is specially built to be robust to all kinds of harsh and extreme weather in Mongolia, at the same time, so easy to take apart and rebuild anywhere and everywhere they want to. It's really a brilliant design!

Even when they are already living in the city, Nomadic Life is still in the blood. There's nothing in the world could change them. I've learned it, quite a hard way. We've all went to Terelj National Park with the Mongolian host family. As a typical city kids we've always asked about plans for tomorrow and few days later. But we've always got no answer. I thought it's because communication problem, at first.

But after all, I realized it's not. They don't make plans because everything they do depend strongly on the weather of the day. And also, the mood. Everything is unpredictable. One morning, the host asked us to pack and leave Terelj because we're going to Jargalt Khan to watch Naadam Festival. We have to pack and eat breakfast in half an hour!

Second time, I was slightly smarter, I packed in 15 minutes. Third time, I realized, I don't have to pack anything because I don't have to change anyway! I was ready in 5 minutes!

Normadic Life

You Have To Be a Man
Yes, you have to be a man, sissy IS VERY un-welcomed by the Mongolians. Manhood is everything, that's why they have Naadam Festival. All boys are trained from young to race a horse, shoot an arrow and wrestle.

Guys in Mongolia don't wear colorful clothings like pink, yellow, light blue etc. Those are for girls, so beware of the colors you chose to wear when you're in Mongolia.

Riding a horse is as easy as walking to Mongolians

Archery

Wrestle! Even he's much bigger than you!

Respect The Nature
Mongolians respect their nature, a lot. Don't take rocks/stones/sands from places you go. They believe things belong to where they are. They have life. Don't kill animals/insects for no reason. Yes, we kill animals for food, but that's for living.

At a farm

I've visited the farm of the herders. Even if the animals will eventually be slaughtered, generally they still treat them pretty well. I often see them petting the cows or the goats, which is kinda loving.

Marvelous Sense of Direction
Mongolians have incredibly good sense of direction! GPS is definitely not useful in Mongolia. Forget about it, just hire a Mongolia guide!

There's no proper road, no signboard, no... NOTHING on the road. Of all the days I was in Mongolia, I was really amazed by the drivers. How did they know where to go? And how did they know they're at the right direction?

In the middle of desert

Privacy 
The concept of privacy of Mongolians are very different from us. If they changed their clothes in front of you (even opposite sex), don't be alarmed and misunderstood, nothing's going to happen. They're just having different concept in privacy than us. All these are perfectly fine to them, but not us.


I guess that's all for now, I will continue with it if I could think of any others :)

Bayanzurkh Uul (The Black Mountain)

The Black Mountain is supposed to be the highlight of the trip to Sainshand. Before we departed from Ulaanbaatar, our friend kept telling us we have to make wishes in this place. She believes in that truly, because she had her wishes came true.

And her family, as much as they can, they visit this place every year. To make prayers and wishes. To thank the god for what have given, and to renew the wishes too.

From the carpark, it's truly a Black Mountain

Looking down from mid way

When we were traveling on the train the night before, we had already pen down our wishes on the paper. The god must be very generous, there is no limit on the number of your wishes.

All you have to do when you reached there, was to whisper the wish to the god, and burnt it after that. (I forgot to take picture of that process though)

Whispering wishes

After burning, we still have to queue another time, to whisper the same wishes to this god again.

When I was in the queue

For one wish

It's really tiring

When we were in the queue, we saw a young man carrying an old lady to the mountain. We were all amazed by the determination of this pair. I guess at the time of desperation, everybody needs a hope, or even, a chance to hope. I will never know what wishes the old lady wished for, but I do hope she had hers granted.

I can only stop here

As we continued uphill, I can only stop here. Because, females were not allowed to go to the summit. The rest of the guys continued the journey uphill, while I did my last praying here. Only females pray here. I circled the place three times (clockwise), tied the blue cloth around like everybody did, and again, whisper my wishes.

At this point of time, with nobody around me (at least nobody I knew), half way making the wish, I was weeping. I did not quite understand what moved me to tears. Maybe the determination of the people in this place? Or even maybe, hoping my wishes to be granted? I did not have an answer. I am naturally a "cryer", but this place seems to make me tear even more easily for no reason.

Satisfying old lady

After I prayed I met the old lady, look at the satisfaction on her face :)

Black Mountain

Tone of the rocks changed from black to yellow

As the guys were doing their prayers at the summit, I could only wait. The sun was scorching hot, but the wind was strong. I didn't feel hot, but that's when it got bad, I got part of my sunburn from this place. Simply because I sat under the sun for too long, just to admire the black beauty.

Still feeling surreal, that finally, I managed to come to this place, Mongolia.